I said I would give a breakdown of the trip so here goes:
Guerande - La Chapelle des Marais (Couchsurfing) : 23 km. (excluding an enforced bus ride from St Lyphard to Herbignac due to flooding);
La Chapelle - La Maziere (AirBnB): 17 km. across the Briere marshes;
La Maziere - Savenay (empty hotel): 16 km. through drizzle;
Savenay - Vigneux de Bretagne (B&B): 18 km. over flattish farmland;
Vigneux - Nantes (friends' flat): 24 km. into the city through a long wooded park;
Nantes: day's rest;
Nantes - St Simon (friends' workshop): 25 km. out of the city in the rain;
St Simon - Ancenis (apartment) : 20 km. along the river;
Ancenis - St Julien le Vieil (chambre d'hote): 16 km. to a hilltop village;
St Julien - Ile de Chalonne (Communist hostel): 25 km. to an island;
Chalonne - Beaulieu-sur-Layon (B&B): 16 km. uphill through vineyards;
Beaulieu - Les 3 Chopines (apartment): 21 km. along the old railway line then past vineyards in a heat wave;
Les 3 Chopines - Chenehuttes (wooden house above a cave): 27 km. through forest back to the Loire;
Chenehuttes - Saumur (cheap hotel): 15 km. along the riverbank past many warehouses and caves of wine producers;
Saumur: day's rest;
Saumur - Fontevraud (chambre d'hote): 21 km. through 'troglodyte villages';
Fontevraud - Chinon (poor hotel): 16 km. from the abbey past vineyards;
Chinon - Azay-le-Rideau (B&B): 15 km. through unpopulated forest;
Azay-le-Rideau - Savonnieres (B&B): 16 km. back to the Loire again after a detour on the Vienne;
Savonnieres - Tours (friends of friends): 16 km. along the river to a big city;
Tours - Amboise (small hotel): 23 km. up and down steeply through vineyards;
Amboise: day's rest;
Amboise - Chaumont (B&B): 23 km. past an island full of breeding terns to a chateau;
Chaumont - Blois (AirBnB): 17 km. in hot weather into a strong wind;
Blois - Mer (hostel): 20 km. via a top-quality restaurant;
Mer - Meung (cheap Moroccan hotel in Orleans): 18 km. past the nuclear power station;
Meung - Orleans ("): 16 km. past a colony of swans and a series of tunnels once used for storage of grain;
Orleans: day's rest;
Orleans - St Denis ("): 16 km. along a canal then beyond the northernmost point of the river through a cloudy chill;
St Denis - St Benoit (hotel): 16 km. through drizzle past a castle in an arboretum and via a 9th century chapel;
St Benoit - Dampierre-en-Burly (hotel): 25 km. through increasingly heavy rain;
Dampierre - St Brisson (gite): 28 km. past gypsy festival and mysterious chateau in the woods;
St Brisson - Bonny-sur-Loire (cheap hotel): 15 km. across the aqueduct at Briare;
Bonny - Cosnes (hotel): 19 km. via a cobbled Roman road and an old track;
Cosnes - Pouilly-sur-Loire ("): 18 km. quickly in rain then back by train;
Cosnes: 3 days' rest;
Cosnes - La Charite (hotel): 17 km. to a town full of bookshops;
La Charite - Varennes (motorway otel): 25 km. through spa town with casino;
Varennes - Imphy (horrible hotel): 25 km. through Nevers to Uglytown, picking up a lizard on the way;
Imphy - Decize (grotty motel): 38 km. along the canal;
Decize: day's rest after gruelling day;
Decize - Roanne (apartment) by train;
Roanne - Villerest (and back) ("): 20 km.south to the lake;
Marcigny - Pouilly-sous-Charlieu ("): 23 km. on the canal;
Pouilly - Roanne : 27 km. back to town, then Roanne - Decize (grotty hotel) by train;
Decize - Cronat (farm): 36 km. getting lost in some woods;
Cronat - Bourbon Lancy (*** hotel): 16 km. along country lanes;
Bourbon Lancy - Gilly (hostel in Moulins): 19 km. " ";
Gilly - Dugoin (hotel): 28 km. along the canal;
Dugoin: rest day;
Dugoin - Marcigny (chambre d'hote): 35 km. along another canal then beside the river;
Marcigny - Villerest (AirBnB) by bus:
Villerest - St Germain Laval (brown hotel): 36 km. through the gorges;
St Germain - Montbrison (pilgrims' resting-place): 37 km. onto the Way to Santiago de Compostela;
Montbrison - Marols (pilgrims' hostel): 30 km. through beautiful hilly country up to 1000 m.;
Marols - St George l'Agricol (hostel): 42 km. including a couple of detours;
St George - Le Cros (farm): 24 km. over hills and through forest;
Le Cros - Le Puy: 21 km. downhill back to the Loire Valley;
Le Puy: rest day;
Le Puy - Goudet (farm): 30 km. through an industrial estate then alongside the river above a wooded gorge;
Goudet - Lac d'Issigeres (hotel): 33 km. uphill to a circular lake;
Lac d'Issigeres - Les Estables (B&B): 37 km. uphill and down (and up) to a (snowless) ski station;
Les Estables - Mont Gerbier de Jonc: 15 km. to the source of the Loire!
TOTAL 1215 km. (760 miles):
66 days including 12 rest days:
2 pairs of heels on my boots;
2 umbrellas lost/broken;
nailclippers, pedometer, suncream, toothpaste lost;
smartphone flooded;
many Compeed blister plasters used.
I had a guide book to the first half of my journey along the long-distance footpath (GR3) which included helpful hints about where to stay, buy food, find water etc., although I had to read it backwards as it was Part 2 of a journey beginning at the source and following the river downhill. Part 1 was unavailable, being out of print, so I had to make up my own route for the second half from Bonny-sur-Loire, following maps where footpaths were marked or fingerposts once I was on the GR3 again or the cockle-shell sign on the pilgrims' path. The weather was mostly pretty kind although variable: there were periods of prolonged drizzle, thunderstorms, heat waves and strong winds, but the latter were largely blowing from behind (especially during that strange spell of weather in the second half of May when it was hot with a stiff north wind which may partly explain the increase in kilometers walked per day towards the end!)
I am hoping to raise as much as possible for Medecins Sans Frontieres so feel free to donate however little or large. For example 1 p per km = £12.15;
5 p per mile = £38.00
or just a lump sum like 50p or £50.
The next post will contain a selection of photos from the journey. If you want anything else to be in it, let me know!
That's a pretty impressive list of walks, Nick! As well as photos, I'd like to see maps/satellite views of the journey if you can manage them. I'll put links to this blog and your JustGiving page in my next Singing Together circular, in case people have mislaid/forgotten them, and want to make a donation.
ReplyDelete