Monday 1 June 2015

Hello dear readers Mission accomplished and well within the expected timespan! I still can't quite figure out how that happened: I had told Chas, Dan and Jannah I would be at Roanne on a certain date which turned out to be hopelessly optimistic so I had to get a train there from Decize then double back on myself with Jerome and walk back to Roanne with him and Anch, where i found myself after a few days in the wilderness on the way to Santiago de Compostela. This was in high country some distance from the river but not as far away as the official GR3 footpath, which had taken a turn up into even rougher country. Here I was mostly walking on small country roads and staying in hostels and farms which catered above all for pilgrims. The host at the first one stamped the card I still had from our journey to Rome and gave me addresses to stay at for the next 3 nights including the main reception centre for pilgrims gathering at Le Puy to set off for Santiago. The following morning I was invited to join them at the cathedral where they were blessed by the priest after a long sermon during which you could hear their boots pawing the flagstones in anticipation and impatience to get going. From Le Puy I was only a few days away from the source of the Loire, and after a much-needed rest (I had been doing a lot of kms per day recently) I embarked on the last lap with a faintly glimmering hope that it could be done in 3 days and still allow me the chance to get to Germany on the fourth day to be present at the German launch of the Soumdsphere recording of Angela's songs. It would involve walking at least 80 km and hitching a lift back down to Le Puy train station (no local buses). The 80 turned into 100 in reality but I was within a hair's breadth of making it, having been offered a lift down from the top if I met someone there, when I got lost after apparently missing a sign painted on a tree and ended up miles from my destination at the agreed time. After walking round the fabled Mont Gerbier de Jonc for several hours I found myself in a ski resort called Les Estables and had to book into a chambre d'hote with the intention of finding the mythical source of the Loire the next day. This was easily done, although not without further twists and turns, and was followed by a further rest day at Le Chalet d'Ambre at Les Estables - a marvellous place to stay which I would recommend at any time of year. And now I'm on my way home, and will write this up in some other form later. Thanks to you all for reading, to all hosts and helpers and companions!

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